Sewing

A trio of repeats – Marlborough, Salme camisole and a Lilou!

I have a backlog of completed projects that all seem to be repeats of patterns I’ve previously blogged about so I figured that I should just include all three in the same blog post!

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First up is my second attempt at the Marlborough bra by Orange Lingerie. If you recall from my last post I was fairly successful with my first go of this pattern but I had a few issues with gaping in the power bar. To fix this I simply took a wedge out of the top of the power bar on both sides and this seems to have done the trick! Not to blow my own horn but my boobs do look awesome in this bra so I think I’ve just about hit the nail on the head for this pattern.

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Unlike my first bra, this fabric comes in a kit from Elise Patterns. The kits all have a black base but come in five different choices of lace colour. As you can probably tell from previous projects I have a thing for blue, so I snapped up the kit and also bought the underwires from the same company. These underwires are more U shaped than those bought from Sewing Chest and if I’m honest I don’t like them as they dig into the side of my chest, but everyone’s different and a U shaped wire might be just what you need to fit you. The fabric however is lovely and the kit comes with all the notions needed for a really nice looking bra.

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Next is another double layer camisole by Salme Patterns, and instead of pineapples I’ve allowed my love of all things bird print to come out and used a polyester chiffon from Plush Addict. For some bizarre reason the fit of this top is different to the first even though both fabrics are non-stretch, so I’m not sure whether I cut it out wrong somehow or did something else weird. It just about fits at the hips so it’s been a key part of my summer wardrobe so far with all the hot weather we’ve been having recently.

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Finally, the hot weather has prompted me into summer dress mode and so, I’ve rustled up another Lilou dress from Tilly and the Buttons’ book “Love at First Stitch”. Again this dress deviates from the original pattern in that due to buying 44″ wide fabric rather than 60″ wide I’ve had to use a gathered rather than a pleated skirt, using the Clémence pattern pieces to form the skirt. I also used the same bodice adjustment as I did with my first and made the back neckline smaller to account for my narrow shoulders. Since I used a different fabric for the lining this time I got to include some nifty side seam pockets, using this tutorial by Sew Mama Sew in order to get some French seams in. The tutorial’s a bit wordy but has useful pictures and gives the inside a lovely and secure finish which I think is important for something like pockets where holes tend to appear.

One thing that I have picked up from making this dress twice now is that I don’t quite agree with the instructions given for the understitching of the neckline. The book suggests when understitching to just trim the seams as close as possible before understitching to the lining. I just can’t get my neckline to not look bunchy when doing this so I clip the curves instead and that gives me a far smoother finish to the neckline. I cannot, however, fault the instructions on how to fully inclose the zip in the lining – look at how neat and tidy the inside looks!

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The main fabric is a lobster print (!) quilting cotton from Social Fabric in Totnes. Along with blue I wear an awful lot of red, so I immediately fell in love with the little lobsters and thought it would be perfect for a little summer dress. The lining fabric is some plain red draped fabric I found on Goldhawk Road over the summer. I had earmarked it for a work top for when I start in October, but I figured that a summer dress was a more urgent need so sacrificed it for the cause. I have a few summer holidays in the near future, so another summer dress will be a very useful addition to my wardrobe!

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3 thoughts on “A trio of repeats – Marlborough, Salme camisole and a Lilou!

    1. Thanks! I’m not sure where they’re from but their patterns seem to use metric measurements over imperial which imply they’re at least European.
      Thanks, I do have a thing for bird print fabric – I have another dress coming up soon on the blog that indulges my love for all things bird print!

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